8-5-10
Catching up now after a few days. Jonathan arrived the morning of the 2nd. Surf has been continuing to pour through until this afternoon. Now we just keep our fingers crossed it will come back up.
Our days have mostly consisted of the following: wake up 5:30, coffee, boat ride, surf, eat, nap, surf, drink, dinner, sleep then repeat.
The boat ride at 6 am is an interesting event all in itself. The boat driver surfs too but he too is either sleepy or hung over ( it is hard to tell) . We have just enough time to down some coffee or have a jelly sandwich from the “continental breakfast” before loading our boards and towels in the boat before launching. I have a dry bag! The launching process consists of pushing the old rusty trailer holding the boat with the bearings in the wheels totally gone so there is just a rusty axle and hub grinding against each other. This makes for very smooth rolling haha. The wheels wobble back and forth as we push this rig down the slopped beach toward the white water depending on where the tide has the ocean level. Thankfully we have been leaving at fairly high tide so the push is shorter. This is not the case when we return at low tide and repeat the process in reverse up the beach. Keep in mind we are backing the boat in far enough so the tires on the trailer are under water so the boat will float when the waves surge in. We push the 25 foot panga (with 130 hp Johnson) backwards into the surf and the waves are coming over the stern. Then once floating free of the trailer we spin the boat around so the bow is pointing into the surf. The captian is usually bailing water out of the stern so the back of the boat floats better .At this point things get easier and a little calmer for the moment while we all climb on board. At this time ( 6am) no one is dry by the way! I try doing this with my togo cup of coffee which is a challenge in itself. Have you tried salty coffee? Not bad!
Now the excitement begins!! Usually 1 or 2 local guys hold the bow into the waves of whitewater that are in a constant procession trying to turn the boat sideways and back to the beach. The “captain” starts the motor (the prop is all chewed up and I don’t know why!! ) and tells the guys in the water to let go when it looks like a break in the waves and we proceed our path out. Three things usually happen: 1- we slowly go over the waves and make it to the outside and calmer water. 2- we just keep the bow pointed into the oncoming waves (some of which come over the high flared bow and give us all another bath) and eventually the break comes and we make it out. 3- We have to circle between the oncoming white water lines to reposition pointing out if big sets keep coming. At some point the waves will let up enough to make a run for it. Number 3 was the case the other day when the surf was the best. Sometimes we get a little air coming off the back of the wave as we go over the crest. I saw another boat hover in the whitewater about 5 minutes one morning waiting for the chance to go for it. This is the way most boats, surf and local fishing boats launch every day down here in the area south of the good ole USA. There are no boat ramps or jetty protected inlets for most of the coastline. This is just a daily routine in quite a bit of the world.
The mornings are usually calm down this way so the actual boat ride is fairly nice once outside the breakers. I have videos to show the launch process if you want to see them. It sounds more dangerous than it really is, none the less you are fully awake once in the calm water 100 yards offshore. Arriving at the surf break is a frantic see who can be in the water first but is dictated by who’s board is on top of the stack. Little boards are on the top so guess who jumps overboard first. The boat is anchored after all passengers are off loaded and the fun begins or continues which ever way you look at it.
When returning back running through the surf to the beach is an easy process, just stay between two waves with no large set in sight and go till the water gets too shallow. Put the boat back on the submerged trailer then push it up the beach after surfing till exhaustion. The trailer moves very slowly!! Even with 10 people pushing!
The beach side shower is one of the best!! Huge amounts of water come out of the large shower head. Super refreshing, perfect temperature. The perfect way to start your day.

El Salvador

7-31-10
Our trip down went fairly smooth . The highway south from the airport was nice for our 2 hour drive to Las Flores. Hotel, service, and food are all very good. Surf has been an all day affair starting with a 6am boat ride 2-3 miles down the beach to Punta Mango and a really good beach break called El Toro. The beachie has been our favorite so far because we have it to ourselves. Waves have been in the head high range with some bigger. Definitely nothing to complain about that is for sure. As always at a place like this you meet people from all over world who come for the surf. So far the caliber of surfing in the water has been below average. Dillon and Mason have been some of the standouts. This is good for us as we can get more waves because it is not such dog eat dog in the lineup. We have a very fun playful 200 yard long right out in front of the hotel.

8-1-10
I just had one of the best surf sessions of my life this am! You never know when one of these will happen but when it does it is sure nice. I went on the early boat to Punta Mango with 2 other guys and arrived to see about 12-15 guys in the water which was depressing but jumped in to join them none the less. I grabbed a few insiders then paddled on out to the peak and proceeded to pick off 20-25 choice set waves. All these were a couple feet overhead off the rocky shoreline with a very fast long right wall down the line. After the first couple of waves I got caught inside on one of the bigger sets to come through. This was not fun! One spends more time under water that above. All this while you are being pushed steadily towards the rocks. Luckily the set let up and I could paddle for the channel for a little breather on the way back out. This wave requires you to drive down the line as fast as you can the whole way till the kick out. This is the kind of wave I like the most but very seldom see. Being able to get that many good waves is another challenge, but I will take what I can get, just give me some more!!! The paddling back out was the worst part because your arms just hurt, but it is a good hurt. After 3 1/5 hours of glassy conditions the wind picked up so we headed for breakfast and a much needed rest.
The point just in front of the hotel is a good right itself although a little “fatter” as we say. Which means an easier take off and just a fun wave to surf. Not very punishing when you get caught inside on a cleanup set either. Still some long rides with a big section at the end to do a hit of some sort.
Food has been very good. You will not go hungry here! All food is included with the rooms. Mark and Brandon showed up this afternoon. Good to see them and spend some water time with both of them. more later, jim

The last entry for now

4-4-10 Easter Sunday
We have met a videographer who likes bike touring and lived in Wilmington for a while. Also a still photo guy who I had met before. Both are down here just shooting some pros in hopes they get some good shots. I have learned some tips off these nice guys and see the results already in my photos. I have fun shooting pics just to see what I can get.
The surf yesterday afternoon was very fun even though the wind had it choppy. Some bigger waves as well as smaller ones with some definite punch. Mainly long lefts coming through. Just watching the level of surfing we are witnessing is amazing with all the airs, tube riding, lip hacks, fins free turns, and etc. Dillon and I had come in just before dark and we were just standing there on the beach watching the ‘surf show’ when one of the guys does this giant air and lands it!!! Dillon said he could have been standing there under the guy as he flew through the air he went so high. When the surfer came in he said that was the highest air he had ever completed!! The level of surfing these guys are doing is inspiring, even for me. It makes me want to do a turn a little harder than I usually do. I think for Dillon especially Jack it is a trip they will never forget just meeting and hanging out with these amazing water artists.
This morning we were greeted with probably our best waves of the trip. The sun was coming up behind a cloud covered sky which usually means less wind which converts to better surf. We all surfed until we could not move our arms any more we were so tired. All this by 10:30 in the morning. Once again we rode and saw some incredible waves ridden. The locals sometimes call this morning crowded with maybe 20 people scattered out down the beach. At home there would have been hundreds of bodies “littering the lineup”. Maybe we should come back on a future trip for some more uncrowded waves. At least I will have something to think about on the way home tomorrow.

4-2-10

4-1-10
Our german friends took off. So it goes with friendships on a trip. Everyone on their agendas. If we go to southern Germany we have a place to stay! Jonathan buckled his board yesterday morning and had it fixed by Felipe the ding repair guy by the afternoon for 20 dollars. This job would have been 75 dollars and a week at home! Go figure! But this am on about his last wave broke it in two pieces to finish it off for good. Jonathan said that was the 6th time that board had had a serious patch job. A good board laid to rest unless Felipe puts it back together again, as it is his now.
Whenever you see one knob in a shower (and I am not talking about that kind you pull or push up then turn left or right for hot and cold water) you know it is not the hot water but rather the cold water knob! Well that is the case in this place. But this shower is different. One does not have to take a deep breath when you first get in. In fact every shower I have taken by the time I get through I have forgotten that it is a cold shower! A very nice plus at shower time. Jonathan and I have discussed this and the water must be naturally warmed by the intense heat of the day. There is a big barrel way up high generating the water pressure that catches the sun’s rays during the day. Thus a nice shower with plenty of pressure and a pleasant temperature!! I love it!!
The AC is another dilemma. We are all in the same room. Everyone wants the thing set at a different temp. The controls are in celsius so no one knows exactly what it should be. Cold during the afternoon when the sun is blasting the porch is nice but going to bed the place is cold. Then about 4am every morning Jonathan who does not have a fan starts complaining it is hot and Dillon/Jack are saying it is too cold, and I am the one who has the AC control. Dillon has the ceiling fan controls by his bed. Anyway something gets changed and we all go back to sleep for another hour when we are all getting back up to check the surf because we are scared we will miss some good waves. That last hour is sweet sleeping though!!
Surf today was bigger not not necessarily better. Sometimes when the swell is on the way up it lacks shape so we will see what tomorrow brings. The air show by the pros in the water was rather cool to watch this afternoon. I hope the AM brings some perfect waves. When down here the level of expectation rises to the top!!

3-31-10

3-31-10
A little recap from the last few days. Surf has had a bad combination of tide in the morning when the wind is more favorable. The place needs a higher tide to break right. Now low tide is about 10 am and moving 1 hour later everyday so our window for better surf is looking up. Also another swell is suppose to arrive tomorrow. We are keeping our fingers crossed. This am had some fun smaller surf and maybe the best so far.
Yesterday we put the car to use and drove to Leon and wandered around downtown. Saw the largest Cathedral in all of central America and as always in front of the church is the town square with all the vendors selling their wares. The central market was also nearby so a stroll was in order through that maze of fruit,veggies,meat,fish,clothes, and you name it. The sidewalks are also crowded with just about everything for sale you can think of. I think Jack was amazed at all the sights. Dillon too! This is an everyday happening that should not be missed by anyone traveling to countries outside the good ole USA. “Central” as downtown is referred to in lots of other countries varies from place to place but is always worth a visit. This time we were not hassled ‘to buy” by anyone, a nice change from some of the more touristy cities. I am sure we stood out like sore thumbs because of oour skin color. We saw very few white people until we went for lunch at the ‘big foot’ hostel where we had a very nice lunch in their vegetarian restaurant. Excellent salads with sandwiches and smoothies. Somehow we were even able to find ‘central’ and our way back out of town in the maze of one way ,narrow, and dead end streets. We were told to get to the edge of town and hire a taxi for us to follow so we could find the place. The challenge and luck played out in our favor!! haha !! I only tried to go down two streets the wrong way!! On the highway to and from our place we pass a volcano that has smoke coming out of the top of it. It is really pretty cool to see.
The day before we went to the next beach to the north just poking around. This whole country is about ready for a huge influx of locals to hit the beach this weekend. We saw temporary restaurants, concert/dance venues, and campsites being set up in fields. Busses are also crowded going to the beaches. Some of them so crowded they had people sitting on the roof with all their stuff and hanging out the back doors. Our spot should not see (I hope) the massive amounts of humanity that will be descending. This place is in front of a good surf spot which does not mean it is near a town. We will wait and see.
The day before Dillon wanted some more stick shift lessons so we went exploring to the “Marina”. Cool place back in the mangroves, with enough room for 20 or so good size cruising yachts but mostly vacant. Beautiful hotel, restaurant, and grounds. Maybe Easter weekend will fill the place up. Always a smile or a wave in return of the same when greeting someone. Dinner of spaghetti with chicken and a bottle of red wine. Jack beat us all to bed as he was out by 8pm!! He went hard all day as I figured he would. But what else should he do?
Our hosts here at Hotel Chancletas are a couple from Miami with their 3 little girls the oldest being seven years old. Shea bought the land 7 years ago and built what is here since then. He found the place while on a surf trip. The land was an old cotton plantation. We are very comfortable here. Two surf guys we have made friends with which are staying in the room next door are from Germany. One is a teacher , the other works for a company that makes currency for different nations. Both are about 35 years old. They have traveled to surf for the last 10 years or so. Being from Germany they have to travel for waves. Both are snowboarders. I have seen this crossover of sports through meeting other traveling surfers in the past.
We had a flat on the rental car. Picked up a small nail. Had it fixed at the “tire shop” down the street. Pics attached.
More later,
jim

3-27-10

The photo above is sunrise just outside our room. Just the Nica's burning the fields!
Up at the crack as I have always described getting up early. The coffee was already made in the restaurant just 30-40 steps away for our room. Yes that small luxury is sure nice!! Surfed from 6:30 till 10 when the on-shores came and blew out the cracking beach-break. We have been taking some surf photos. Walking around outside during the middle of the day one feels like being a chicken on a rotisserie grill it is so hot. There is not much humidity just dry heat. This is the dry season and most “greenery” is brown and much of it burnt as they burn it due to lack of lawn mowers I guess. A lawn mower down here is a machete by the way, everyone carries one. Even bicycles have sheaths for them. Good for most anything tool and cheap!
Took a drive this afternoon just exploring the area. We did have our boards just in case! The drive was a view of what it is really like down here away from “civilization”. We ended up in some very off the beaten path areas. “Where ever you go there you are” is the cover on a Mexico travel book I have. That was never more apparent than this afternoon. Just looking around made you realize that having an indoor toilet, a floor that was not dirt, a roof that was not palm fronds, a kitchen that was inside and air conditioned at that, running water and not a well to haul your only water by the bucket full, a shower that was not at the well with the bucket, did I mention electricity!! , maybe a car, which we saw very few of, all of these places with people in the yards had a smile and a wave if offered the same, as we drove by slowly. The road was so bad one could not drive fast. Just idling in 2nd gear was about the right speed. I hope Jack and Dillon really remembered what they witnessed as everyday life down here. The scenes were normal for down here but unheard of for the most part in the good ole USA. The next time you complain about the modern conveniences we are use to having but not functioning just think of everyday life down here. It will make you feel very lucky!!!