Friday, June 20, 2008
bigger surf
The waves started out about 6-8 feet for an hour or so. I got a few good ones. Jomathan brought out his 5-8 which was a mistake so he headed in to get his bigger board and snapped the merrick in the white water as he tried to swim under a big one. He spent a total of an hour just paddling in and out to the line up today! Then the sets just kept getting bigger and bigger. Each set the whole line up changed. it was hard ot figure out. But there were some bigguns. Mary anne and myself did a run today. the road is a little better than the Uwharrie trail but not much. Dillon went and surfed a place called tiger tracks. Here in the jungle it makes you wonder why they named it that. The people here are friendly and we are enjoying the place so we are staying another 3 days before heading back to bali. Hopefully more tomorrow. jim
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