4-4-10 Easter Sunday
We have met a videographer who likes bike touring and lived in Wilmington for a while. Also a still photo guy who I had met before. Both are down here just shooting some pros in hopes they get some good shots. I have learned some tips off these nice guys and see the results already in my photos. I have fun shooting pics just to see what I can get.
The surf yesterday afternoon was very fun even though the wind had it choppy. Some bigger waves as well as smaller ones with some definite punch. Mainly long lefts coming through. Just watching the level of surfing we are witnessing is amazing with all the airs, tube riding, lip hacks, fins free turns, and etc. Dillon and I had come in just before dark and we were just standing there on the beach watching the ‘surf show’ when one of the guys does this giant air and lands it!!! Dillon said he could have been standing there under the guy as he flew through the air he went so high. When the surfer came in he said that was the highest air he had ever completed!! The level of surfing these guys are doing is inspiring, even for me. It makes me want to do a turn a little harder than I usually do. I think for Dillon especially Jack it is a trip they will never forget just meeting and hanging out with these amazing water artists.
This morning we were greeted with probably our best waves of the trip. The sun was coming up behind a cloud covered sky which usually means less wind which converts to better surf. We all surfed until we could not move our arms any more we were so tired. All this by 10:30 in the morning. Once again we rode and saw some incredible waves ridden. The locals sometimes call this morning crowded with maybe 20 people scattered out down the beach. At home there would have been hundreds of bodies “littering the lineup”. Maybe we should come back on a future trip for some more uncrowded waves. At least I will have something to think about on the way home tomorrow.
Sunday, April 4, 2010
Friday, April 2, 2010
4-2-10
4-1-10
Our german friends took off. So it goes with friendships on a trip. Everyone on their agendas. If we go to southern Germany we have a place to stay! Jonathan buckled his board yesterday morning and had it fixed by Felipe the ding repair guy by the afternoon for 20 dollars. This job would have been 75 dollars and a week at home! Go figure! But this am on about his last wave broke it in two pieces to finish it off for good. Jonathan said that was the 6th time that board had had a serious patch job. A good board laid to rest unless Felipe puts it back together again, as it is his now.
Whenever you see one knob in a shower (and I am not talking about that kind you pull or push up then turn left or right for hot and cold water) you know it is not the hot water but rather the cold water knob! Well that is the case in this place. But this shower is different. One does not have to take a deep breath when you first get in. In fact every shower I have taken by the time I get through I have forgotten that it is a cold shower! A very nice plus at shower time. Jonathan and I have discussed this and the water must be naturally warmed by the intense heat of the day. There is a big barrel way up high generating the water pressure that catches the sun’s rays during the day. Thus a nice shower with plenty of pressure and a pleasant temperature!! I love it!!
The AC is another dilemma. We are all in the same room. Everyone wants the thing set at a different temp. The controls are in celsius so no one knows exactly what it should be. Cold during the afternoon when the sun is blasting the porch is nice but going to bed the place is cold. Then about 4am every morning Jonathan who does not have a fan starts complaining it is hot and Dillon/Jack are saying it is too cold, and I am the one who has the AC control. Dillon has the ceiling fan controls by his bed. Anyway something gets changed and we all go back to sleep for another hour when we are all getting back up to check the surf because we are scared we will miss some good waves. That last hour is sweet sleeping though!!
Surf today was bigger not not necessarily better. Sometimes when the swell is on the way up it lacks shape so we will see what tomorrow brings. The air show by the pros in the water was rather cool to watch this afternoon. I hope the AM brings some perfect waves. When down here the level of expectation rises to the top!!
Our german friends took off. So it goes with friendships on a trip. Everyone on their agendas. If we go to southern Germany we have a place to stay! Jonathan buckled his board yesterday morning and had it fixed by Felipe the ding repair guy by the afternoon for 20 dollars. This job would have been 75 dollars and a week at home! Go figure! But this am on about his last wave broke it in two pieces to finish it off for good. Jonathan said that was the 6th time that board had had a serious patch job. A good board laid to rest unless Felipe puts it back together again, as it is his now.
Whenever you see one knob in a shower (and I am not talking about that kind you pull or push up then turn left or right for hot and cold water) you know it is not the hot water but rather the cold water knob! Well that is the case in this place. But this shower is different. One does not have to take a deep breath when you first get in. In fact every shower I have taken by the time I get through I have forgotten that it is a cold shower! A very nice plus at shower time. Jonathan and I have discussed this and the water must be naturally warmed by the intense heat of the day. There is a big barrel way up high generating the water pressure that catches the sun’s rays during the day. Thus a nice shower with plenty of pressure and a pleasant temperature!! I love it!!
The AC is another dilemma. We are all in the same room. Everyone wants the thing set at a different temp. The controls are in celsius so no one knows exactly what it should be. Cold during the afternoon when the sun is blasting the porch is nice but going to bed the place is cold. Then about 4am every morning Jonathan who does not have a fan starts complaining it is hot and Dillon/Jack are saying it is too cold, and I am the one who has the AC control. Dillon has the ceiling fan controls by his bed. Anyway something gets changed and we all go back to sleep for another hour when we are all getting back up to check the surf because we are scared we will miss some good waves. That last hour is sweet sleeping though!!
Surf today was bigger not not necessarily better. Sometimes when the swell is on the way up it lacks shape so we will see what tomorrow brings. The air show by the pros in the water was rather cool to watch this afternoon. I hope the AM brings some perfect waves. When down here the level of expectation rises to the top!!
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