Sunday, April 4, 2010

The last entry for now

4-4-10 Easter Sunday
We have met a videographer who likes bike touring and lived in Wilmington for a while. Also a still photo guy who I had met before. Both are down here just shooting some pros in hopes they get some good shots. I have learned some tips off these nice guys and see the results already in my photos. I have fun shooting pics just to see what I can get.
The surf yesterday afternoon was very fun even though the wind had it choppy. Some bigger waves as well as smaller ones with some definite punch. Mainly long lefts coming through. Just watching the level of surfing we are witnessing is amazing with all the airs, tube riding, lip hacks, fins free turns, and etc. Dillon and I had come in just before dark and we were just standing there on the beach watching the ‘surf show’ when one of the guys does this giant air and lands it!!! Dillon said he could have been standing there under the guy as he flew through the air he went so high. When the surfer came in he said that was the highest air he had ever completed!! The level of surfing these guys are doing is inspiring, even for me. It makes me want to do a turn a little harder than I usually do. I think for Dillon especially Jack it is a trip they will never forget just meeting and hanging out with these amazing water artists.
This morning we were greeted with probably our best waves of the trip. The sun was coming up behind a cloud covered sky which usually means less wind which converts to better surf. We all surfed until we could not move our arms any more we were so tired. All this by 10:30 in the morning. Once again we rode and saw some incredible waves ridden. The locals sometimes call this morning crowded with maybe 20 people scattered out down the beach. At home there would have been hundreds of bodies “littering the lineup”. Maybe we should come back on a future trip for some more uncrowded waves. At least I will have something to think about on the way home tomorrow.

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